| Whilst much of the UK’s
clothing manufacturing is outsourced to China and Eastern Europe,
I passionately believe that the UK (and Italy) is home to the
best tailors in the world. Whilst Savile
Row is the Mecca of all aficionados of custom tailoring, it
is important to realise that bespoke tailoring is in fact
a cottage industry. Whilst the sale might be made on a salesroom
floor in Henry Poole & Co or Anderson and Sheppard, the
work is more often than not sent out to specialist coat, waistcoat and trouser makers throughout the country.
Which brings us nicely along to my hometown of Leeds.
50 years ago in the days of Montague Burton, Leeds was the
tailoring capital of the world and despite the fact this is
no longer the case, many of the tailors of yesterday still
remain. After a thorough search I believe I have three of
the best on board – two silver haired legends and a
rising star who as individuals, cut by hand and sew every
single garment, for individuals.
This bespoke process provides my customers with
an all important first fitting where the internal construction
of the jacket is clearly visible. In discussion with the client,
the garment is pinned to achieve the desired silhouette and
indicates to my tailors the adjustments that need to be made back in the
cutting room. The suit is taken apart, re-cut, put back together
again, pressed throughout and two weeks later, the suit is
ready for its final fitting.
The process is in contrast to a growing
number of made-to-measure operators who stock a number of
“try on” jackets which are placed on a client
until best fit is achieved. Required adjustments are then
noted and faxed off to a factory overseas where the garment
is made to a straight finish and delivered back to
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